Hank wrote:

All of these VR of the 60's vintages are simply a vibrator that applies a varying ( interrupted) semi ac voltage that approximates 6 volts DC at the guages. ( they were real cheap when the converted to 12 volts...and
the legacy remained).

When you replace the VR they all work approx the same to supply the approx 6 volts. I assume the VR failed open to zero volts so there should be no damage to the guage. Do all of the other gages work ok?

What Iwould do is: Turn the key on and:

1. Remove the wire from the gas tank sensor.Check to see where the gage registers.
2. Make sure there are no fumes and/or gas present Make sure there are no fumes and/or gas present Make sure there are no fumes and/or gas present Make sure there are no fumes and/or gas present and ground the
wire to the body..............

If there is movement to full during either open circuit or grounding, the sending unit is no good. If the gage does not move, try the following...

3. Next locate the terminals of the gage and mesure the voltage at the input...is wil oscillate but it should approximate 6 volts. Check to see where the gage registers. If there is no voltage replace the VR.
4. Remove the wire from the output terminal of the gage. Check to see where the gage registers.
5. Next take a long wire lead and attach one end to ground and the other end to the output terminal
Check to see where the gage registers.

If the gage does not move during 4 and 5 above you have a defective gage. if it moves, it is either the wire or the tank sensor and since the tank sensor was checked in 1 and 2 above you should replace the wire.

Hope this helps

I'm searching for anyone who has a 1956 Ford Truck for sale. My details are below. I was also wondering if there are any big shows / auctions I could attend that are strictly for 1953-1956 Ford Trucks and/or have a large following of these type of trucks. Thanks for your help.

Hank wrote:

Best bet is to search the local and national ads. I would watch the Auto trader ads avail on the net.. The usually have several in the Colorado area and you should be able to find one in your price range. Any where
from parts trucks to show winners...

http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/adsearch.html

Billy wrote:

Thank you so much for the internet address. I've been on it for the past two hours looking at all the 1956 Ford Trucks for sale. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much for the help.

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Hank wrote:
It still sounds like a ground problem on the tail light.

What I do is get a length of wire with two alligator clips one on each end ( jumper wire)....Sand off a bare spot on the tail light housing and attach one clip. Connect the other clip to a suitable ground....sand a
bare spot on the frame or a bolt on the frame.

You need a simple continuity checker NAPA may have one but it is essentially a bulb attached to two wires and a probe on each end of the wires. You then put one end of the probe on one of the hot contacts of
the tail light and the other on the tail light housing. If it lights you have solved the ground problem with the jumper wire. if it doesn't light, take the end opposite the hot contact and probe the frame or chassis until you get a good ground...the bulb will light. try moving the jumper wire so the previous step works.

I have built-in permanent jumper wires on my truck as the ground near the tail lights is sooo poor.

It has been so long since I used a six volt system, but I think you need a two prong 6 volt flasher to get it to work.... The main problem is to get enough current to flow thru the flasher to get it to click ( flash).

If you look real closely at the 3 prong flasher the terminals are labeled "X" "P" and "L". hook up the X to the truck power, the L turn signal and the "P" to the Pilot light ( Indicator) which is not
necessary on the truck.

12 volt conversion no sweat

Remember the truck will be 12 VOLT NEGATIVE GROUND. Hopefully your wiring is in reasonable shape....i.e. most everything is hooked up and it has not been trashed by a hacker.

Step 1
disconnect and throw away the battery.

Step 2
replace all six volt bulbs with equivalent 12v bulbs. (Note: tail lights are 1157 or equalivant)

Step 3
throw out the six volt generator and regulator. replace with a 56-64 ford 12v generator and regulator

Step 4
buy a large voltage dropping resistor for the heater fan and wiper motor. If you get a big enough one you can run both the heater motor and the wiper motor on it. NAPA should have these...they are available thru Hemmings Motor news or any F-100 parts supplier also.

Step 5
Hook the input end of the resistor to the hot lead and one output wire to the heater switch and the other output wire to the wiper switch.

Step 6
Remove the instrument panel input power and run it thru the dropping resistor and re-hook it to the panel. You need a wiring diagram to find this wire.

Step 7
Throw, or better yet, sell at swap meet, (for big bucks )the stock radio (if you have one).

Step 8
REMEMBER REMEMBER REMEMBER REMEMBER REMEMBER REMEMBER
REMEMBER 12 VOLT NEGATIVE GROUND

hook up the battery.... REMEMBER REMEMBER REMEMBER REMEMBER
REMEMBER 12 VOLT NEGATIVE GROUND

step 9
Give it the smoke test...try and start it...the starter motor should turn over really fast and it should start quickly. Caution: Do not use the starter motor for long periods of time as you will eventually smoke
it if you do. Putting 12 volts to the 6 volt starter will not hurt it if it is in good shape and you follow the caution above. If you smoke the starter just replace it with a 56 to 65 12 volt starter.

I have run just this conversion on a 55 for about 30 years...without any problem

NOTE: The instrument panel, the starter motor, the heater motor, and the wiper motor do not care if the ground is positive or negative....the radio does.

If you have any trouble give me a shout...

Del wrote:

Greg (aka Hank), you were right on the money! I never thought to do a continuity check from the receptacle to bracket, results no continuity. An hour of grinding & sanding fixed the problem & I have lights.
I still don't understand why I got the same voltage reading from both lights when the left one was never grounded. I'm getting closer to getting it on the road. Thanks again, Del

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I have a 55 Ford Panel that belonged to my uncle until a few weeks ago. It drives now and I to hope to have it modernized (rodded) before I turn fifty. I guess I better get going, only four years to go.

I wonder if you could help me with a small problem I am having locating the VIN # on the frame? The state patrol has to verify it with the title as I brought the truck from another state. Thought it was on the right side top of frame rail about where the front axle is centered. I also believe it should be in more then one place.

Any help would be helpful.

I am sending a picture of the old 55 right before I picked her up.

Thanks Again

Hank wrote:

Not a problem...The VIN number on the panels are in the same place as the pickups. On the 55 & 56's it is located on top of the frame on the right hand ( passenger) side just opposite of the steering box and just
ahead of the main front cab mount. You may have to remove the right

Mac responded:
Thanks for the help in locating the VIN# on my 55. The State Patrol thought it was either on the left frame rail or on the cross member. With the rust that was there I thought maybe the number might be gone. I was about to give up and let them assign a temporary VIN# when I got your e-mail and with
some cleaning, there it was.

Thanks again for tech help and offer of future tech help.

Nadean wrote:

I have a 56 Ford 1/2 Ton step-side in not so good condition although I think it's all there. I want to sell it but need

some idea of what to ask. Any suggestions?

Hank wrote:

The value of these trucks is dependent on it's condition and where in the country you are selling it.

If the truck is complete and fairly rust free even if is suffers from truck rash...( used as a junk hauler) with assorted dents and glass damage, it is worth relative more. If it runs it is worth even more.

A recent example in this condition ( refered to as a good restorable truck) went for $2000 in our neighborhood ( Western Washington).

If the body is rusted out in the cab roof and the bottom of the doors, it is probably only good for parts and worth a coulple of hundred to the right buyer.

Your truck can be worth anywhere from $100 up, dependent as I said on the condition and where you are selling it.

A good reference is Hemmings Motor News ( available at News Stands) local newspapers and the auto Trader Magazine( available on line). Check these out before you sete a asking price.

Hank wrote:

Ok....Best bet is to go to your local bookstore/news stand and get a copy of Hemmings Motor News ( http://www.hemmings.com) or in my recent
search: http://www.hemmings.com/hemmings/searches/parts/searchdisplay.cfm?search=partsforsale&displaystring=TC2&searching=TRUCKS&mixed=EXCLUDE&make=Ford&manufacturer=%21

These sources will let you know where to contact parts suppliers, both private and those who do it as a business.

Locating the parts varies depending on where in the country you live.... Out here in the rain belt ( read Seattle), the body parts are begining
to become scarce( in good condition) I have parted out 2 57/58 trucks but I only save the parts that will fit on a 56. I hung on to some
parts for ten years and could not find a home for them. There is not much demand for 57-60 parts so the rest goes to the scrap metal
dealers...

There are several businesses on the west coast that can supply what you need. I know there are some on the east coast....Texas, OK, and Kansas
should be a good source in the mid "east" states....

You have to be careful how you ask for the parts. When you say "Tail Shaft"....Do you mean the cast iron shaft that bolt to the main part of
the transmission ( the part that the drive shaft fits into), or do you mean the drive shaft. You also need to know what type of transmission
you have and if you have a long box or a short box...( I.E. wheelbase).

By asking for the dash insert, you must mean the complete instrument panel.

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Hank wrote:

No valve.....must be a blockage..... You might try using a fine wire...I use 1/16 in welding wire to clear the obstruction into the
tank... I have not seen an obstruction inside the tank before but I guess it can happen.

As for the 223 Six...great engine...had one in my first 55....it ran great until We put a rod thru the block coming across the Hood Canal
bridge one time.....It did not run too well on 5 clys but it made it over to the other side....next stop was a 292. It now has an original
223 six in it. It won't win a drag race but it gets great gas milage...above 20 on the road.

If you need any other help or maybe some parts give us a call....I do have some spare six parts, they are getting harder to find...but they
are also not in high demand. The only reason I keep them is to help out the guys that are starting out.

Hank wrote:

I have been trying to get a member in the club to send me pictures oin the tilt hood...no luck...he will bring them to me on a
disk at the Aug meeting...I will forward them to you.....And yes you can do it at home....All you need is some one who can weld a little...

I am trying to restore the 53 that my Grandfather gave me my senior year of high school. But my efforts were set back when the original engine finally gave out. I
looked at rebuild and replacement with another engine. That was the last I wrote. But recently in the classifieds I came accorss an engine for sale for
the price of $600. I am writing in request of your advice as to weather you would consider it a fair price. It is said to run.

Hank wrote:

Running is a loose definition...runs but burns lotsa oil....not worth it. Six hundred is kind of expensive, unless it is recently rebuilt (
with reciepts), or has some speed equipment and/or hard to find accessories

(I paid 75 for the last 53 flathead that I bought (last year) and I think it will run if I play with it. The engine is complete down to
the aircleaner) I am using this engine as a spare for my Hotrod Model A.

The going rate is bout 250-300 ( running) at the swap meet. Let me get in touch with the Flathead nut in our club and I will get back to you.

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Hank wrote:

First the door lock problem best way to solve this problem is to order a drivers side door lockset or better yet a whole truck look set (
matching Keys)...they can be ordered from the suppliers listed below and many other sources.

Power steering....throw the stock stuff out....I have helped add power steering to a stock truck but by the time we got it to work
right......we spent more than replacing the whole suspension, and it still rides like a truck.

If you want to keep it all Ford ( Good Idea ) use the M'stang conversion. Please note you have to use larger brakes ( Granada disks
and rotors with conversion kit...same cost as replacing the stock rotors with 5 bolt units). Two units we use in the club are the Volare Unit,
and the Gibbon Cordoba kit...Bothy are great units with the Cordoba being the most heavy duty. ( by the way the Gibbon conversion is a bolt
on kit)

You do not need to convert the rearend at the same time. What I have done is use a flat faced wheel ( sometimes called a mojock , it is a
cheap wheel usually used on trailers) for a Ford car (5 on a 4-1/2 pattern) and drill ( use a good machine shop) a 5 on a 5-1/2 pattern
between the existing wheel holes you only need one for a spare tire.

As for the six.....great engine I have run one for years...thought about souping it up...Way too expensive even if you find the parts at a swap
meet ( sorta like finding hens teeth).

Stick with the stocker and save your money for a conversion... I am partial to 351 windsors, C4 or C-6....I am gonna try a AOD on the next
one as I have one in the garage that is Rebuilt.

If you get a chance join a truck club....lotsa free advice most of it is good. It will not only save you $ but you can get some good buys
from the members as they always have spares...and some time stuff for
sale or trade.

Below are listed some great parts sources.

Mid Fifties F-100 at 1-800-252-1956.
They have free catalogs also.

Also Bobs F-100 out of Sacramento Ca
909 681 1956

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